No, we're not discussing that time you didn't ace a math test. We're talking about firearm failures!

Imagine this: You're on the range. You pull the trigger. Bang. You pull the trigger again, but—nothing.

You're under pressure now to make the right decisions. Do you panic? What's the safe way to handle it?

This article is going to walk you through some of the most common failures, discuss how to diagnose and rectify them, and get you back to shooting quickly and confidently.

Let’s get started!

Failure To Feed

Regardless of the action type, a failure to feed occurs when ammunition does not enter the chamber as you close the action. Perhaps the ammunition isn’t seated correctly, or two rounds have entered the chamber (a double feed). Either way, you'll notice the chamber won’t close.

Fix: Ensure the magazine is seated correctly. Give it a firm slap from the bottom to make sure. Cycle the action completely. Check if there’s ammunition in the chamber.

Generally, this type of failure is a quick fix, and you’re back to shooting without much delay. However, be sure to inspect your firearm later—it may need cleaning.

Failure To Fire

There are three variations of this. For the first 2 your procedure is going to be the same: Wait 60 seconds while maintaining a good grip on the gun with safe muzzle control just in case the round goes off during that first minute after your click. Then PROVE safe and inspect the ammunition.

1 - Misfire:

A live round is in the chamber, and when you pull the trigger, you hear a pronounced "click" instead of a bang. It could be due to bad ammo—factory defects or poor storage can result in dislodged primers, meaning they won't ignite properly, causing the round to fail. Alternatively, it could be dirt or fouling blocking the firing pin from striking the primer—a simple cleaning can dislodge any dirt and debris obstructing the firing pin.

2 - Hang-fire:

This is a delayed ignition. Extremely rare in modern ammunition, you'll hear that "click," and nothing happens—then, later, the round will ignite abruptly, and the gun will fire. Statistically speaking, a hang-fire should ignite within 60 seconds or not at all.

3 - Squib load or primer pop:

There's insufficient or no powder in the cartridge, and the primer has nothing to ignite. There's not enough energy to push the bullet out of the barrel, potentially leaving the bullet in the barrel causing an obstruction.

This is incredibly rare with factory ammunition and tends to occur more with those attempting to reload their own ammunition. Watch out for a soft bang that feels weaker than the rest. You might notice nothing leaves your muzzle. If that happens, stop shooting immediately and ensure your gun is safe before continuing.

Failure To Extract

After the ammunition is fired, the gun fails to pull the cartridge/casing out of the chamber. This usually happens for one of three reasons:

1 - A dirty gun with a dirty extractor. Cleaning the gun will usually sort out the problem quickly.

2 - Human error. The gun isn’t being held in the correct orientation or with a loose grip. Work that grip!

3 - Bad or damaged ammo. If the casings are damaged, the extractor has nothing to catch and pull out of the chamber.

Failure To Eject

This occurs when the casing does not eject from the firearm. A variation of this failure is called a stovepipe (when a casing sticks out of the chamber like a stovepipe).

To rectify, open the action and use your hand to clear the obstruction, then cycle a new cartridge into the chamber. You're ready to continue shooting.

What next?

If any of this stresses you out, maybe you're worried you won't be able to deal with various failures under pressure—we can help! We’ll be launching a refresher course soon that will help build your gun handling confidence.

If you’d like to be among the first people to experience our new courses, join the mailing list below.

Failures To Shoot